Dressed in a crystal-encrusted gown, a model leans back as her weightless tulle embroidered cape floats up in the wind. This angelic moving image provided the centerpiece for the Euphoria fall winter 2022/23 catwalk show teaser that came to life on day three here. Founded in Dubai in 2019, designer Rabia Alsheikh’s “Infinity” collection of dresses came to fruition in a symphony of bold, captivating, flowy and energetic pieces. Sultry, red carpet shoulder bearing gowns were complimented by ultra-sophisticated modest looks, embracing the body in delicately fluid swathes of silk, accentuating the female form with inflated taffeta, and puckered and puffed sleeves.
Belarus-based designer Tanya Levitskaya of All’s came to the Arab fashion Week stage for yet another season with a spring summer 2023 ready-to-wear and fall winter 2022/23 couture collection that celebrated female diversity. With small yet deliberate asymmetrical details like ruffles and puffed sleeves, she illustrated the spirit of a modern, contemporary fashion maven. All’s flair for experimentation was evidenced by a cast of trans seasonal looks that ranged from off-the-shoulder sun dresses to urban sophisticate, cropped trenches paired with delicate transparent skirts.
The Malaysian brand that has captivated film stars like Ana de Armas and singers like Ariana Grande and Meghan Trainor provided a couture high note here at Arab Fashion Week with its beaded tassels and feathery dream ensembles. With sustainability at its core, the brand paid tribute to mother nature and her wonders, celebrating the beauty of life by using irregular patterns, bright colors and intricate embroideries. “The Ivan Young 2023 collection tells all the stories and journeys of modern women who are confident, charming, and love to express their joy of living through their wardrobe,” the sister duo behind brand said. A palette of nature-inspired hues such as ruby red, coral orange, flamingo pink, olive green and lavender grey pained a colorful tribute to the earth and all its wonders.
Known for its bridal couture, Filipino designer Michel Bernardo showed the UAE crowd what her brand Malichè is capable of beyond the altar. An all-black and white lineup dubbed “Tomorrow is Unlimited” her latest creations came to the fore in an emotional display, borrowing from the glam heydays of the 60s and 70s. The exaggerated rose served as the hallmark of the collection — pinned cleverly to the neck and sewn onto sleek black gloves. Space-age hoods, scuba-tight fitted dresses and cutout bodices spoke to the glamour of a modern era. “It is a reminder — or maybe, a challenge — to all of us to do whatever we can do now, or we might unwittingly fall into the trap of an endless promise of tomorrow, which is but an illusion,” she said.
With its fall winter 2022/23 couture collection, Tamam Humariff drove its connection between the cultures of the Middle East and Russia even further in what came to the limelight as a regal wedding party. Fit for a modern sheikha or princess, the brand’s flair for embellishment catered to her every whim through a renaissance-display of crystals, whimsical hand embroidery and metallicized leaves. Gilded and crystallized, the Humariff woman’s mythical femininity was celebrated and fortified by capes and accentuated shoulders, which were paramount throughout.
Kel by Elena Kondratova
The Ukrainian brand that prides itself on having revolutionized wedding and evening fashion, comes to Arab Fashion Week in search of new retail markets due to the ongoing war. But the ongoing turmoil at home didn’t stop its designer Elena Kondratova from injecting d3 with a potent dose of sexy via side slits, plunging necklines and modern goth bride details. Made by Ukrainian seamstresses and tailors, the Kel made a splash at Arab Fashion Week with its intricate accessories – warrior princess face masks fashioned with chains, sequined crowns and veils that conjured the mystery of a bygone era and history’s fabled female icons.
Emboldened by Thai wisdom in the form of a contemporary goddess, the Pipatchara woman lit up the runway with her newfound sense of enlightenment and fashion-forward sense. The Thai brand known for its hand-knotted macramé designs unveiled its “Crystallization No.4” collection, closing d3 in Southeast Asian pageantry. The sister-design act employed sustainable practices and crafted its collection up-cycled materials. Thai silks were used to convey the joy of the brand’s “from Sunrise to Sunset” concept expressed in an array of wearable art pieces: gowns, jackets, trousers, beach wear, and accessories that lit up the stage with a timeless palette punctuated by olive, taupe, lime, beige, and shocking pink.